2010년 12월 22일 수요일

2010년 12월 17일 금요일

Textiles and Eco-friendly products

Textiles could be one of the most un-sustainable products in the world. In their entire lifecycle from growing the raw material or creating it from oil to manufacturing and selling and final disposal they can create a serious problem.
The Worsted Witch provides an excellent overview of “Textiles and Sustainability“.
She says:
Not all textiles are created equal. Some fabrics, such as polyester and nylon, which are petroleum-derived, are downright unsustainable. And although rayon is composed of wood pulp, its production is a polluting bad boy. Even ubiquitous cotton isn’t untouchable…
And continues by quoting from the an/Feb 2006 issue of Natural Home & Garden had this to say:
The textile industry creates a host of pollution problems. Factories discharge dyes and chemicals into waterways, and they release heat, fly ash, formaldehyde, and sulfurous and nitrous compounds into the air, thereby contributing to acid rain. Textile packaging, drums, and toxic chemicals are dumped into landfills. Even the used fabrics themselves are a problem. Many can’t be recycled because of their mixed-fiber content.
In this context, The Mint talks about the recent textile trade fair in Paris, Texworld, (Free Reg.) where organic cottons and fair-trade were the new trends helping companies to cash in.
As consumers wake up to global warming and globalization, ethical issues are gaining ground and spinning more and more hard cash in the competitive world of international textiles.
And textile ground-breaker Tencel, one of the world’s leading companies highlighting health and environmental concerns, said business was growing. “Demand for organic cotton is gaining momentum,” said Ram Srinivasan, general manager, marketing, KG Denim Ltd.
Socota uses clean cotton grown in Cameroon, which is then spun in Madagascar, woven in Madagascar and Mauritius, and turned into garments in Madagascar.
But as buyers worldwide look increasingly to eco-friendly fabrics, the ground-breakers in the field are having to look beyond purely environmental concerns to market their goods. Austrian firm Lenzing, which produces the new-age Tencel fibre made of wood pulp that revolutionized textiles in the 1990s, claimed that the fibre was perfect for people with sensitive skin.
As The Worsted Witch reminds us, “When a textile is labeled “organic,” it generally refers to the fiber itself, as opposed to the textile production process.”
There are benefits at different life-cycle stages of the organic and eco-friendly fabrics trade, both for consumers and producers however, in the larger scale of things it is important to see that organic cotton may travel half way around the world to reach the ethical customer.
Resources:

what is bamboo fabric?

 Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass. Bamboo fabric has been growing in popularity because it has many unique properties and is more sustainable than most textile fibers. Bamboo fabric is light and strong, has excellent wicking properties, and is to some extent antibacterial. The use of bamboo fiber for clothing was a 20th century development, pioneered by several Chinese corporations. fabric is very soft and can be worn directly next to the skin. Many people who experience allergic reactions to other natural fibers, such as wool or hemp, do not complain of this issue with bamboo. The fiber is naturally smooth and round without chemical treatment, meaning that there are no sharp spurs to irritate the skin.
Bamboo fiber resembles cotton in its unspun form, a puffball of light, airy fibers. Many companies use extensive bleaching processes to turn bamboo fiber white, although companies producing organic bamboo fabric leave the bamboo fiber unbleached. To make bamboo fiber, bamboo is heavily pulped until it separates into thin component threads of fiber, which can be spun and dyed for weaving into cloth.
Bamboo
Bamboo fabric is favored by companies trying to use sustainable textiles, because the bamboo plant is very quick growing and does not usually require the use of pesticides and herbicides to thrive. As a result, plantations can easily be kept organic and replanted yearly to replenish stocks. The process of making unbleached bamboo fiber is very light on chemicals that could potentially harm the environment.
In textile form, bamboo retains many of the properties it has as a plant. Bamboo is highly water absorbent, able to take up three times its weight in water. In bamboo fabric, this translates to an excellent wicking ability that will pull moisture away from the skin so that it can evaporate. For this reason, clothing made of bamboo fiber is often worn next to the skin.
Bamboo also has many antibacterial qualities, which bamboo fabric is apparently able to retain, even through multiple washings. This helps to reduce bacteria that thrive on clothing and cause unpleasant odors. It can also kill odor causing bacteria that live on human skin, making the wearer and his or her clothing smell more sweet. In addition, bamboo fabric has insulating properties and will keep the wearer cooler in summer and warmer in winter. The versatility of bamboo fabric makes it an excellent choice for clothing designers exploring alternative textiles, and in addition, the fabric is able to take bright dye colors well, drape smoothly, and star in a variety of roles from knit shirts to woven skirts.
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-bamboo-fabric.htm

Bamboo

Bamboo

- Anti Bacter Tab- good for kids.
                             Hysenes

- Bamboo fabric has a higher absorbancy than cottons.

- stronger but flexible.
  soft as silk
- eco- friendly

- bamboo tree grow realy fast- fast to get resourses

What is wool?

Wool is the dense, warm coat of sheep, also called a fleece. The hair of sheep has many unique properties that make it well suited to textile production, something humans realized approximately 8000 BCE, when sheep first began to be domesticated. Wool is used in a variety of textiles and can be found woven or knitted.
Wool is highly flame resistant, and frequently used for mattresses and rugs for that reason. It is also highly durable, able to stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry. In addition, wool has excellent moisture wicking properties, pulling moisture into the core of the fiber so that it doesn't feel wet or soggy to the wearer. Wool pulls moisture away from the skin, as well, and is worn by people in a wide variety of situations who prefer the feeling of dry air next to the skin to the clammy sense of perspiration.
Wool is favored for textile production because it is easy to work with and takes dye very well. The springy fibers remember shapes when well cared for. Furthermore, wool takes to felting, a process in which fibers interlock into a tight mat, very well. Felt is used as insulation, for arts and crafts projects, and for decorative accents.
Wool production starts with the shearing of the sheep, which usually happens once a year. A skillful shearer can remove the entire fleece at once with long flowing strokes, keeping the fibers long. After shearing, the wool is washed to remove impurities. One of these impurities is lanolin, which is used in many cosmetics.
After washing, many producers combine wools for a specific blend and dye them together, so that the dye will take evenly, before carding the wool through a set of teethed rollers. Carding pulls the fibers straight, while removing any remaining dirt or vegetable matter from the wool. The wool is pulled into slivers, long strips of fibers loosely pulled together and running in the same direction. If, after carding, the wool is under three inches (almost eight centimeters), it is twisted into rovings, rope like strands that can be spun into wool for knitting. If the strands are longer, they must be combed and drawn before spinning.
Spinning pulls the fibers tightly together and twists them so that they retain a long yarn shape. Yarn can be spun in all sorts of thicknesses and gauges, depending upon the intended use. For wool weaving, the yarn tends to be very fine. For knitting, it may be quite chunky. There are myriad uses for wool, a highly versatile textile. For example, shorter, coarse wool will turn into carpeting, while medium length wool will be used in suits.
After knitting or weaving, the wool is often shrunk through a controlled process so that it won't shrink excessively for the end user. Most knits are also blocked on forms to set a shape, and many wool products are also brushed for a specific finish.
Proper care for wool begins with following the label directions. In general, wool should be allowed to rest between wearings, to retain its shape. It should never be compressed or stored on hangers, which will stretch it. Brushing wool will remove surface soil and stains before they are ground in, and a slightly damp cloth will remove deeper stains. Wool should be dried flat at room temperature, not exposed directly to heat. http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-wool.htm

Wool


   
Wool

 - natiral fiber from hairs of sheep
 - warm. keeps temperature warm
 - The wool shaved when the weather is warm like spring.
 ( depens on the location, sometimes the wools are shaved twice in the spring and the autum)





                                                                  wool scarf in TOPSHOP









Cotton


                                                                                       
 Cotton

1. lirhtweight  and breathable

2.helpness for people who has senstive skins

3. soft and fliexible

4. easy to wash

5.biodegradeable and renewable resours

Organic cotton

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search

Organic cotton yarn
Organic cotton is generally understood as cotton, from non genetically modified plants, that is to be grown without the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers or pesticides.[1] Its production also promotes and enhances biodiversity and biological cycles.[2] In the United States cotton plantations must also meet the requirements enforced by the National Organic Program (NOP), from the USDA, in order to be considered organic. This institution determines the allowed practices for pest control, growing, fertilizing, and handling of organic crops.[3][4] As of 2007, 265,517 bales of organic cotton were produced in 24 countries and worldwide production was growing at a rate of more than 50% per year.[5]

Pesticides
Since organic cotton is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, it should contain fewer pesticides than conventional cotton. Pesticides used in the production of conventional cotton include orthophosphates such as phorate and methamidophos, endosulfan (highly toxic to farmers[15], but not very environmentally persistent) and aldicarb.[16]. Other pesticides persisting in cotton fields in the United States include Trifluralin, Toxaphene and DDT [17]. Although the last two chemicals are no longer used in the United States [18] their long breakdown period and difficulty in removal ensures their persistence. Thus even organic cotton fields may contain them since conventional cotton fields can be transitioned to organic fields in 2–3 years.

Production
Production requirements are specifically the set of changes that must be made to field and farming practices in order for a crop to be considered organic. To begin with, organic fields must go through a cleansing period of three years, without the use of any prohibited substances, before planting the first organic crop. Fields must also be equipped with physical barriers and buzzers in order to prevent contact of organic crops with any chemical substance product of surface runoff from crops near by. Producers must also strive to promote soil fertility through cultivation practices while maintaining or improving the physical, chemical, and biological condition of the soil and minimizes soil erosion. Organic growers must also implement practices to support biodiversity. Such practices include integrated pest management (IPM), which consists of the manipulation of ecosystems that benefit both the crops and the organisms that live around it. In addition to these practices, producers may only apply crop nutrients and soil amendments included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed in crop production.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_cotton

What is Eco-friendily textiles and fashion

Fabrics

There are a variety of materials considered "environmentally-friendly" for a variety of reasons. First and foremost, the renewability of the product. Renewable resources are items that can be replenished in a relatively short amount of time (as opposed to millennia).
The second factor is the ecological footprint of the resource - how much land (usually measured in acres) it takes to bring one of the individuals (plants or animals) to full growth and support it.
The third thing to consider in determining the eco-friendliness of a particular product is how many chemicals it requires to grow/process it to make it ready for market.
Fabrics not currently in this list include: linen, silk, kenaf, and switchgrass, but they are forthcoming.
HEMP
By far, the crop with the most potential for eco-friendly textile use is hemp. The ecological footprint of hemp is considerably smaller than that of most other plants considered for their fibres. Hemp plants grow very quickly and densely which makes it difficult for weeds to take hold, eliminating the need for herbicides and artificial fertilizers. It requires no irrigation as it thrives on the amount of water in the average rainfall, and it is highly pest-resistant. Hemp has naturally long fibres which makes it suitable for spinning with a minimum of processing.(could be used with an illegal purpose)
Those fibres are also long-lasting, in fact, historically hemp has been used for making naval ropes that were used in and around water because they resist rot. If it held up to those conditions, imagine how well it will wear as a pair of jeans, or a shirt. Hemp fabrics come in a variety of weights and textures. You can purchase fabric or clothing, woven or knit; buy yarn, rope, belts and a wide range of products made of this versatile plant.
Hemp -1.eco- friendly  2. long fibres(minimum process of spinning.)
WOOL
Wool produced by caring farmers can be a wonderful resource, with a few caveats. Sheep graze plants almost to the dirt, and there is the issue of the manure entering into the water supply. Factory-farmed sheep (as with any factory-farmed animals) live miserable lives where the handlers are concerned with productivity and speed, including during the shearing process, where nicks are common even to the point of slicing the entire nose off the sheep. Then there is the matter of bleaching the wool to get it white, or dyeing it, but with a responsible eco-friendly manufacturer most of these issues can be overcome.
ORGANIC COTTON
Organic cotton is much more environmentally friendly than the traditional variety as it uses no pesticides, herbicides, or insecticides during the growing cycle. There are many growers of this crop, and the number is steadily increasing. Usually manufacturers using this plant to make textiles follow up the process by using natural dyes to further reduce the amount of chemicals dumped into our ecosystem. Even more promising is a new cotton that is grown in the tradition of the Aztecs - coloured cotton. Sally Fox, a biologist, spent ten years perfecting a coloured cotton with long enough fibres to be spun into thread. She managed to get it to grow naturally in shades of green and brown. It has the added benefit of not fading (in colour) and in fact, it gets more vibrant with the first few washings.
Orgnic cotton- 1.organic - ecofriencly , no harming chemicals 2. good for skin (especially for kids. This is less harning for the allegics.)
SOY SILK
Legend has it that Henry Ford wore a suit made of soy silk in the 1940s, but the US Government of the day decided to go with rayon instead. Here in the 21st century, though, it's soy silk that has the greater potential. Soy silk is made from the by-products of the tofu-making process. The liquefied proteins are extruded into fibres which are then spun, and used like any other fibre (woven, knitted, etc.). You can purchase skeins of soy silk yarn and test it out for yourself. The high protein content makes it receptive to natural dyes, so you can create your own colours.
Soy silk- easy to dye - create your own colours
INGEO™ CORN FIBER
It is undoubtedly too early to believe that Dow Chemicals (Cargill Dow) has turned over a new leaf, but it seems that they are interested in reaching out to new markets through the development of Ingeo™. Ingeo is created by extracting the starch and then sugars from corn, and processing them to make a fibre, which can be spun into a yarn or woven into fabric.
 
BAMBOO
Bamboo is a highly renewable grass, and it is probably this property that has resulted in its being classified as "eco-friendly". It also has natural antibacterial properties and the fabric "breathes". The resultant cloth is also biodegradable.
Bamboo-  1. antibacterial 2. good for summer wear - nice breathes
FORTREL EcoSpun™
A polyester fibre made out of recycled plastic bottles which can be made into fleece. Manufacturing this fibre is preferable to creating new petroleum-based fibres, and given the sheer amount of plastic bottles in existence, finding a new use for them is a plus. The fleece that is created is prized by backpackers for its warmth and durability.

Fabrics | Care of Materials | Definitions | Resources

Care of Fabrics

Hot water is the best means of sanitizing your fabrics. It is, however, not always enough to remove stains and dirt. There are a variety of phosphate-free and enviro-friendly detergents on the market, but here are a few other tips. Remember that different types of stains require different treatments. There is no panacea; protein-based stains may get set permanently if you use the wrong method.
  • Sunshine instead of bleach if you have the time to lay your whites in the sun to let them bleach naturally, you can take them outside while they are still soapy and hang them where they will receive at least five hours of direct sunlight.
  • Lemon Juice and sunshine is another powerful combination for stubborn stains. Treat the items the same as in the line above, only add a touch of lemon juice.
  • Eucalyptus Oil is an excellent grease stain remover that won't damage your fabrics.
  • Borax
  • Tea Tree Oil for times when you want to disinfect the laundry and cannot use hot hot water, tea tree oil has antiseptic, antibacterial, germicidal, and fungicidal properties.
  • Rubbing Alcohol - good for grass stains
  • Hydrogen Peroxide - since this is hard on the fabric fibres, only use this method in a pinch and for fresh stubborn stains like blood.
  • Baking Soda

Interesting Alternatives

While researching this page we came across some ideas that seem interesting, and we'd love to find out first-hand how effective they are. So they will be the focus of future Product Review Articles.
They include:
  • ECO-wash laundering system - which seems to be plastic discs with ceramic pellets. From the site:
    The activated ceramic pellets inside the discs are agitated within the machine to release ions. These ions reduce the surface tension of the water, allowing it to penetrate the fabrics and release the dirt. The result is clean, fresh clothes without the risk of chemicals damaging the garments.
  • Eco-Ball - From the site:
    Eco-Ball is an ecological laundry ball with high polymeric contents (organic). It has been filled with this natural liquid which ionizes water molecules and makes them deeply penetrate into clothing fibers.
    Eco-Ball is resistant to high temperatures.
    It must be used together with SANITI CLEAN

Fabrics | Care of Materials | Definitions | Resources

Definitions

organic
Produced with the use of feed or fertilizer of plant or animal origin without employment of chemically formulated fertilizers, growth stimulants, antibiotics, or pesticides.
recycled
Textiles that have been discarded by consumers, retailers or charitable organizations, which have undergone a discriminating process of sorting, grading and separation into waste-free products suitable for reuse.
ecological footprint
The calculation of the amount of natural resources required by an individual or group of individuals (plants, animals, nations) to sustain itself.

http://naturalhealthcare.ca/eco_and_environmentally_friendly_fashion.phtml

2010년 12월 1일 수요일

Bio Couture


someone created clothes with materials using  Bacteria, yesast.. some furuits and green tea.

These are the pieces from the project called "Bio Couture" by Suzanne Lee with the slogan "imagine if we could grow clothing.". I learnt about the project on the book "Beyond Green - sustainability and fashion" (2008). I know there has been lots of alternative fibres being developed but never imagined something like that... how cool is that! my only question is if its REALLY wearable it doesnt look soft, &it looks a bit like paper. and thos kind of materials look lick organic textile...