2011년 1월 17일 월요일

New technonlogy!! HEATTECH!!

Warms Autonatically stays warm surprising technology

steying warm thtoough a cold winter is actually not all that difficult, layer cloth to make a heavy outfit or wear something make of thick material. Since clothing was first created,people havegotten through the coldness of winter with either of these methodes. how can you overcome the  cold of winter without relying on thick clothing? That dilemma has been resolve with ground - breaking technology HEATCH form uniqlo. its fiber absorb moisture thant the body emits, and the fabric itself generates heat. Just wearing it automatically warms you a surpring innovation in technlolgy wear. moreover, the layer of air in between the fibers does not allow. the warmth generated to escape, so that you can continue to feel warm as long as you are wearing it.

Thin, Lightweight and cinfortable qualities resulting from tireless Research with the human body.

HEATTECH is no merely warm clothing. HEATTECH stretches and shrinks to fit your body.That is something you will fell once you try it on unparalleled comfort. Uninhibited movement. The days when you had to wear layer upon layer of restrictive clothing to feel warm are over.




I think that Heattech is one of jeanious technology of personal wellbeing. In present, the tamperarcher of winter has changed cloder than inthe past. so, almost people have dressed in layer of clothes heaily. and they do not like it due to heavy. and they do not have free action. but heattech is solveing this  ploblem. and it is also the technology of personal weelbeing. beacuse, i can help to saveing of person's temperatur with warming body.
http://www.uniqlo.com/lab/heattech/us/
image; http://beijingology.wordpress.com/2010/11/11/highly-recommended-heattech-from-uniqlo/

2011년 1월 16일 일요일

Personal wellbeing

Personal wellbeing

-antibacterial

-mediclal treatments

-UV protection

-aromatic

-insect repellancy

-moisture management

Conparison of dyeing and natural dying

Dyeing

- chromatic dyes
  ; dydes that decomeing wisidle with knitt
- cinductive inks
-reflective inks

Natural dyeing

* with colours from natural procudt (orgaanic, such as plants)
   It has a great benefit which is not harming
   but earth -saving and depends on which material
   you use, sometimes it works as a healthy helper

* obtaining colours

1. Red (or pink)- flowers , strawberry ..ect

2. yellow - curry (yellow), vinegar(it also helps the colours to get lighter)

3.purple - cabbage, grape(purple)

4.Blue-

5.Browm - Bleakfast tea, rusts

6.Green - Green tea, Bronze, grass
 
         

how to use natusal dyeing

Principles of Natural Dyeing
  1. Most natural dyes need both a plant extract and a mineral mordant to make a permanent colour.
  2. The stronger the dye extract - the more plant used - the deeper the colour.
  3. Mineral (metal salt) mordants are always used in the same PROPORTION. One can use less for a pale colour, but NEVER USE MORE, as too much metal can harm the fibre.
  4. All recipes are given as PROPORTIONS. Typically, amounts are for 1 pound of fiber. If you are dyeing more, increase the amounts, proportionally; if less, decrease, always proportionally. i.e. if you are dyeing 1/2 lb, use only 1/2 the recipe amount.
  5. TIME - TEMPERATURE - CONCENTRATION are the variables involved in any chemical reaction. Higher temperature means less time needed for dyeing, as does higher concentration of dyestuff.
  6. Prepare your textile material for the rigours of the dyebath: put FIBRE in a MESH BAG; tie YARN IN SKEINS, using thin yarn ties; PRE-WASH FABRIC or garments to remove any sizing.
  7. NO RUSH. Work time is not that much, but process time can be several days.
Equipment and Materials
Use big pots with plenty of room for the material to move freely. Otherwise the colour will dye very unevenly. Since these recipes use only alum and iron for mordants, and completely non-toxic dyestuffs, any type of pot is ok to use. If you work just with alum and iron, most dye work can be done in plastic buckets with the cold soak method below (except the dye extraction itself). Stainless steel or unchipped enamel are recommended. Aluminum pots will take more scrubbing to clean, and may stain permanently with dark dyes. Iron darkens colours, so iron pots should be used only with recipes that call for iron. Just make sure you scrub your pot thoughly after use or you may end up witn pink spaghetti. If other mordants are used, use a stainless steel pot dedicated only to dyework because there will always be residue and you wouldn't want to eat from these pots.
Aurora Silk sells a full selection of natural dyes and mordants.
For ideas on which dyes and which mordants to use, view our Natural Dye Color Chart.
Step 1 - Preparing material and dye
Mordanting your fiber material:
  • WEIGH your textile material. All recipes are proportional, just as in cooking.
  • ALUM: Divide the weight of the material to dye BY FOUR. Weight out that much alum mordant. A scant two tablespoons equals one ounce of alum. Add the alum to the pot, and almost fill with warm water. Leave enough room to add the wet textile material. Stir until fully dissolved.
  • OTHER MORDANTS: ½ oz (two teaspoons) per pound fiber for tin, chrome, iron and copper.
  • Wet out the textile in warm water.
  • Add the wet textile. Gently stir so that it is opened out in the solution.
  • HEAT until the pot is hot, stirring occasionally for evenness of colour.
  • Keep it HOT for about 1 hour. (180 - 200 degrees F)
  • Let cool overnight.
ALTERNATIVE: begin with hot tap water. "MORDANT" in a plastic bucket and let it soak 3 to 5 days. (Lower temperature = more time). Silk is ready after soaking overnight. Tin, chrome and copper need to be heated to mordant well. Iron can be done cold.

MEANWHILE, extract the dye:
  • in plenty of water, (enough to loosely cover by several extra inches,) BOIL UP YOUR CHOSEN DYESTUFF:
  • FLOWERS - boil 20 minutes; strain off the water to make the dyebath.
  • BARKS, ROOTS, DYEWOODS - soak overnight, boil 1/2 hour, pour off and save the extract (this is the dye solution), add more water and boil again. Do this boiling and saving three times to make the dyebath. -or more times, as long as dye continues to extract.
  • COCHINEAL - if ground, boil 20 minutes; if whole, proceed as for barks.
Step 2 - Dyeing
  • Add enough additional water to the dye solution so the textile can move freely in the dyebath.
  • Add the textile and heat to hot. Heat 1 hour or until the colour is the desired depth. Remember, the colour will lighten after it is rinsed and dried.
  • If the colour is too light, use more dyestuff. (But do not use more mordant.)
  • Now is the time to modify the colour, if desired, with the additional mordant of iron. (See directions, below.)
  • Cool the textile, rinse and dry. Handle the fibre according to its form:
    • Fibre should be gently swooshed in several changes of water, squeezed out and removed from its mesh bag only after it is partly dry. Then pull it gently to smooth and groom the roving.
    • Yarn should be rinsed with an up and down motion to help remove tangles and smooth it. Wring thoroughly. Shake out and twist it while drying, to soften.
    • Fabric can be run thru a wash cycle, without soap, in a machine; then tumbled dry to soften.
IRON "AFTER-MORDANT" TO MODIFY COLOURS:
Dissolve about 1 tablespoon of ferrous sulphate per pound textile. Add to the dyebath, or fill a bucket with warm water, add the iron and transfer the textile to this "after mordant" bath.

This is an important technique to know, for iron will turn golds to moss greens, reds to plum and maroon colours, and will darken browns. Many leaves and plants will make grey with iron as the only mordant needed.

Always remember: have fun and treasure the unique.

More from Aurora Silk:
For more detailed dyeing recipes, read Brilliant Colors! by Cheryl Kolander.
http://www.aurorasilk.com/info/natural-dying.shtml

Printing & Dyeing

Printing & Dyeing
- Digital printing : fast, speed production, screem printiog                   

 

-Transfer print ; T-shirts, digital primting; heat processed
-Reahnce printing ; T- shirts
                             ex) elly kishimoto

- Devore, burn out
 -the oldest was
 -toxic and not very clean way
(it uses chemical products)

- PU and spandex texture
http://fashiontech.wordpress.com/2010/01/27/karma-kraft-digital-printing/

Lamiation

Lamination

- 3D strucures
                                                                          1layer
                      bonding                                                   2 knitted layers
    (connected)   (liexible)                                    2layer

-Security holographic laminates
 ipixelaated image, two different images overlaid

-electrospun membranes
 ; bonding with very fine layers

- elastomeric membranes
; self healing material
;shpe protedtion quality

Laminate

Laminate


A laminate is a material that can be constructed by uniting two or more layers of material together. The process of creating a laminate is lamination, which in common parlance refers to the placing of something between layers of plastic and glueing them with heat and/or pressure, usually with an adhesive. However, in electrical engineering, lamination is a construction technique used to reduce unwanted heating effects due to eddy currents in components, such as the magnetic cores of transformers.

Contents

[hide]

[edit] Materials

The materials used in laminates can be the same or different. An example of the type of laminate using different materials would be the application of a layer of plastic film — the "laminate" — on either side of a sheet of glass — the laminated subject. Vehicle windshields are commonly made by laminating a tough plastic film between two layers of glass. Plywood is a common example of a laminate using the same material in each layer. Glued and laminated dimensioned timber is used in the construction industry to make wooden beams, Glulam, with sizes larger and stronger than can be obtained from single pieces of wood. Another reason to laminate wooden strips into beams is quality control, as with this method each and every strip can be inspected before it becomes part of a highly stressed component such as an aircraft undercarriage.
Examples of laminate materials include Formica and plywood. Formica and similar plastic laminates (such as Pionite, Wilsonart, Lamin-Art or Centuryply Mica) are often referred to as High Pressure Decorative Laminate (HPDL) as they are created with heat and pressure of more than 5 psi (34 kPa). A new type of HPDL is produced using real wood veneer or multilaminar veneer as top surface. Alpikord produced by Alpi spa and Veneer-Art, produced by Lamin-Art are examples of these types of laminate.
Laminating paper, such as photographs, can prevent it from becoming creased, sun damaged, wrinkled, stained, smudged, abraded and/or marked by grease, fingerprints and environmental concerns. Photo identification cards and credit cards are almost always laminated with plastic film. Boxes and other containers are also laminated using a UV coating. Lamination is also used in sculpture using wood or resin. An example of an artist who used lamination in his work is the American, Floyd Shaman.
Further, laminates can be used to add properties to a surface, usually printed paper, that would not have them otherwise. Sheets of vinyl impregnated with ferro-magnetic material can allow portable printed images to bond to magnets, such as for a custom bulletin board or a visual presentation. Specially surfaced plastic sheets can be laminated over a printed image to allow them to be safely written upon, such as with dry erase markers or chalk. Multiple translucent printed images may be laminated in layers to achieve certain visual effects or to hold holographic images. Many printing businesses that do commercial lamination keep a variety of laminates on hand, as the process for bonding many types is generally similar when working with arbitrarily thin material.

[edit] Types of laminators

Three types of laminators are used most often in digital imaging:

[edit] Film types

Laminate film is generally categorized into these five categories:
  • Standard thermal laminating films
  • Low-temperature thermal laminating films
  • Heatset (or heat-assisted) laminating films
  • Pressure-sensitive films
  • Liquid laminate

[edit] See also

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laminate